Removing the clutch is a fairly straight forward process.
This took me a total of two hours doing it alone. I could have done it in less time but I am in no rush.
  1. Remove exhaust system. I removed the header bolts first and then worked toward the rear removing supports. That way, when it came time to remove the last nuts on the mufflers, I was simply able to grab them and give a pull to get the system off. I was able to slide the whole assembly out the back.
  2. Remove u-joint bolts on driveline. Easy enough but it is nice if you have someone to work the emergency brake when you turn the wheels to get a good shot on the bolts.
  3. Support engine with a jack or the like under the oil pan.
  4. Remove forward bolts from C brace. 19 mm lower bolt head with an 18 mm upper nut. It is a tight squeeze but even folks with fat hands can get up there.
  5. Remove rear bolts from C beam brace. 22 mm both for the lower bolt head and the upper nut.
  6. Remove all the caulk from your hands and bolts. It's like that old movie, The Blob, it just gets on everything
  7. To get everything out easier, go to the differential and support it. I used a transmission jack but a scissor jack will work fine. Now, remove one of the bolts from the Differential Carrier on one side. The DC is the long arms that go out from the diff and attach to the frame. Now slowly release the tension on the jack and let the carrier come down some. This will give you plenty of room.
  8. Now with some of the tension relieved, you can use a screwdriver to move the C beam support around and give you some room to work with the driveshaft.
  9. Remove the driveshaft by pressing in towards the transmission and the rear should come out easily. Now pull it from the transmission. You will get some oil leaking from the end of the transmission so have a pan ready to catch it.
  10. This now really opens up the tunnel and the C bean support can easily come out now.
  11. Now you move to the interior of the car and remove the shift knob. You take a very small common screwdriver, protect the leather, and insert it between the leather and the metal shift pattern piece. Work it out slowly and everything will be fine. Now, in case you have not seen it, the shift knob has a metal key in there. Just get a screwdriver and pop this out. Then you can unscrew the knob. Once that is unscrewed, you need to unscrew the tiny little allen set screw on the reverse lockout (if you have one). Now you are finished in the interior. A time saver here is to have the shifter in 3rd gear.
  12. Back on your head now. Underneath you need to disconnect the electrical connections.
  13. Now this is optional, but I chose to remove the clutch slave now. It kinda hangs around and gets in the way a bit now, but when you begin to drop the transmission, you will be glad you did take it off.
  14. Support the transmission with something. If you are doing this without the help of a transmission jack, use a scissor jack.
  15. Start removing the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing. Heat and vibration have a tendency to make these stick so you may need a breaker bar. The bolts themselves are 15mm and there are 5 of them to remove. Start with the bottom ones and work towards the top.
  16. With the final bolts removed, you have to slowly work the transmission off. You do this by slowly letting down on the engine support and the transmission support. This angles the transmission a bit towards the back. Get your bucket ready to catch some fluid coming out the end.
    OK, so you are slowly letting down both supports. You can do a little twist of the transmission or you can pry it open just a bit taking care not to damage the aluminum facing. Work it back slowly. Let it down more, work it back, and repeat. Finally, what will happen is that there will be no more support under the engine and you need to just work it a bit and the shifter will come out of the interior hole. Once that happens, you can just slide the transmission off of the shaft.
  17. Slide the transmission out from under the car and clean up the mess you made with the transmission fluid leaking everywhere.
  18. All that is left now to get to is the bell housing. First, remove the plate on the front of the bell housing. There are 3 10mm bolts holding it on. Next, remove the bell housing bolts. The bolts here are 13mm. When removing them, just take care not to remove the ground bolts that are on the back of the engine. You will see one on each side with several wires running to it.
  19. With all the bolts removed, you can take off the bell housing. Now you may have a bit of a go with it because of the clutch forks but with a bit of patience, you can work it off and the housing can be easily removed.
  20. The easiest part now is simply removing the clutch and flywheel. It is there with no tricks or surprises so I won't go into that.

Related Articles:

Jacking up the ZR-1. Scott Fabre

How to Jack-up a ZR-1. Michael Hom

Author: Jim Milstead
Posted in: Drivetrain, Clutch
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