Start by jacking the car up, removing the driver's side wheel and inner wheel well cover.

Remove the driver's side knee bolster.

Access is needed here to pull the master cylinder push rod off the clutch peddle.
The push rod is held in place by a J-Clip. This can be difficult to get back on due to the tight confines.
Here we see the clutch peddle switch and the tail end of the master cylinder push rod (at the left of the switch).
Here is a view of the two bolts holding the back plate of the master cylinder to the firewall. A thick 1" plate slides over the large black rubber seal on the push rod.  
The old Master Cylinder removed. A thick 1" plate slides over the large black rubber seal on the push rod. The holding bolts go through this plate.
 Here is the plate behind the new master.
Side view of the new master cylinder.  
Installed view of the master cylinder.  
Ready to attach the fluid line down to the slave cylinder.
Replacing the J-Clip.
Refill the clutch reservoir.
Using GM fluid is supposed to prevent squeaking.
GM fluid part number.
The filled reservoir.
Replace the cap and pump on the clutch pedal. The clutch is 'self-bleeding' but may take 80 or 90 pumps to get the pedal hard.

Related Articles:

Jacking up the ZR-1. Scott Fabre

How to Jack-up a ZR-1. Michael Hom

Author: Scott Fabre
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