Original author: Scott Fabre - Sept 30, 2000  
Tools Required: T-15 and T-30 Torx drives, 10mm socket and appropriate ratchet and extensions, hammer, jack or lift.

Check all parts have been received.
Jack up the car and place axle stands. (See link below on how to jack up the car)
The kit comes with an assortment of fasteners, bands and clamps.
Four mid-section spring hangers and two rubber mounted hangers at the rear attached to the muffler need to be loosened.
Remove three bolts holding each bracket at each side at the front.
The first new tube to install is the passenger side tube after sliding off the stock flange. Note there is no captive nut on the welded tab as there is on the stock assembly.
Passenger side tube after the stock flange is removed.
Sanding is advised to make assembly easier.  
This is one of the nuts supplied with the kit. It is not metric and could be substituted for a metric version in order to maintain tool consistency.  
I tack welded the nut on. Here is the welded flange from bottom.  
Welded flange from top  
Passenger side tube before adding "Easy Seal Clamp".
Clamp installed.
Sanding the flange lip.
Both of the tubes are in and attached to the front spring hangers.
Bolts added to driver side flange.
The 'center muffler' or Resonator is next to be attached.  
A jack handle braced between the differential housing and resonator. This was done to get the two sides to line up for final tightening. 
Next the bands are added. Bend them apart to fit over the pipe then use a large set of channel locks to bend them back.  
Hang the "under axle" pipes and rear mufflers. Lining everything up can be difficult and there are no hints on how to do this.  

Related Articles:

Jacking up the ZR-1. Scott Fabre

How to Jack-up a ZR-1. Michael Hom


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