Articles
Symptoms:
You see "INFL REST" light on the DIC panel.
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Tools Required:

10mm socket, T15 and T30 drives, Grinding wheel

and/or sandpaper, dielectric grease.

 
Procedure:
Use a 10mm for the initial fasteners (upper left) and then a T-30 for the three screws and a T-15 for the small two screws.
 
Notice, now the rear wheel well part is out, the battery hold down bolt and battery have been removed and the lower side cover has been lowered. The lower side cover was held in with half dozen small bolts (8mm head) on the under side and then several T-15 screws on the side. (accessible by opening the door).
 This is the last bolt holding the battery tray. It was a mutha (technical term for difficult). I thought it was going to break. It is easy to see why we have problems with the sensor and ground integrity on the side of the battery. The sulfuric vapors and overflow goes into this area. Lots of signs of corrosion everywhere in this area. Needles to say I used some anti-seize compound on this bolt putting it back in.  
 Now removing Mr. Sensor. The rear bolt is 10mm and the front is 13mm. This I surmise is not an accident. The wholes on the tabs (below pictures) are also of different sizes in order to aid in keeping the sensor facing the right direction. Otherwise the air bag would only deploy when you are it from the rear. Kinda defeats the purpose  
 Signs of corrosion on the flange along with hardened dielectric grease. (I think)  
 Overexposed picture but you can see the corrosion and hardened grease on the right flange.  
 Other grounds (battery ground left and LT5 ground right) were also in need of maintenance. These were removed, cleaned, greased and reinstalled.  
 Another look at the corrosion.  
 Notice, not only is there paint under these two ground points (battery and LT5 grounds) but look how thin the metal is that the screws go into.  
The threads on these screws are WAY TOO COARSE to be used in such thin metal. I changed these on final assembly (later) to a fine threaded bolt. The left one has been cleaned. The right one has not been  
 I used a very fine grit wheel to remove the rust and paint from all the contact areas. Seemed like the right thing to do. Seems to me an oversight by the general to have paint under these contact areas  
 See how shinny? I resurfaced each on the tabs I found including ALL of the tabs on the accessory junction between the battery and the fire wall.  
 Paint and corrosion removed. Ready for grease.  
 Better view of all four. Notice how the sensor mounts have a captive nut attached to the inside of the beam.  
 Shinny, so shinny. All ready to go back in.  
 Now all greased up.  
All back in now ready to button it up..  
 So that's it. The SIR sensor grounding problem is now gone. I reset the codes and test drove it and all is well. A side benefit of the work with the tabs seems to have been more stable dash lights at idle when at a stop sign. The dash lights used to change intensity as the alternator kicked in and out. Not now !!! :) cool.  
   
Expected Result:
The INFL REST light will not come back on once your reset it. You can rest the code by doing the shorting of pin K on the diag connector under the steering wheel. See related Article... 
 
Related Articles:
  Fixing-the-INFL-REST-light
Inflatable-Restraint-Light-INFL-Rest
 

Other Links:

Forum Thread "INF Reset"

Forum Thread "Infl Reset"

Forum Thread "Finished the infl fix"

Forum Thread "Help..Infl Rest Light still on"

 

 

Starting out ... get her up and wheel off


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Posted in: Electrical
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