Tools Required:

Flat Blade Screwdriver

16mm Wrench

17mm Wrench

7mm Allen Wrench

Metal Clamp

13/16 Socket

1/2" Ratchet

Jack the car up and remove the wheels.


Put one of the lug nuts back on to secure the rotor.

Use the 13/16" socket to remove the rotor fasteners.

Remove the two fasteners holding the caliper on.  
Turn the caliper upside down and lay it on the top of the rotor between the rotor and the steering knuckle. Then remove the j-clip.  
Pull the pin out.  
Note direction and placement of pin.  
Pry the outer pad off first.  
Pry the inner pad off being careful not to upset the cylinder.  
Turn the pad around so that the face of the old pad contacts the two cylinders. This is done so that the clamp can be used and the pads can be easily removed. Slowly compress the two cylinders.  
Remove the reservoir cap and keep an eye on the reservoir for overflow as you compress the two cylinders.  
A view of the cylinders fully compressed.  
I always apply less of the anti squeak compound than is called for. It makes less of a mess, so the next time you do the pads they will come off without using a prybar..  
Now press in each of the pads.  
Install each of the retaining clips. Starting with the inner.  
Then the outer.  
Align the mounting bracket and slide it back on.  
Make sure the spring clips have good contact with the mounting bracket. If they don't then pry them back a bit until they do.  
Slide the pin in or work it in by rocking it back and forth as you insert.  
Reattach the j-clip onto the pin.  
Slide the caliper back onto the rotor.
Put the big bolts back in: Torque to 166 ft/lb.  

Pump the brake peddle very slowly to charge up the fluid and set the pads.

Once reassembled and the wheels are back on, use the pad manufacturer's recommendations as to correct break-in procedure.

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Author: Scott Fabre
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