Tools Required:

Flat Blade Screwdriver

16mm Wrench

17mm Wrench

7mm Allen Wrench

Metal Clamp

The first thing to do is remove the wheel. Then remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove the caliper and the rotor. Then put a single bolt in the lower caliper mount. This holds the caliper for more work.


The next thing to do is mount a wire as show. The other end is tied to one of the screws that hold the fender well in at the top. Note: the trick of using the socket to hold the pads in.
Now take a flat blade and remove the spring.
Use the 16mm on the outer and 17mm on the inner nut as shown.  

Use the 7mm Allen wrench on the lower fastener and the 17mm to hold the inner nut.

Note the top fastener is a regular 16mm head bolt and the bottom one is an Allen head.


Now turn the inside section of the caliper over to reveal the business end.

Note: the trick of using the socket to hold the pads in.

Now use a clamp to press slowly on the pad so that it goes back in.  
You must remove the top of the reservoir to keep an eye on it to make sure it does not over flow.  
I used a spare wireless micro camera to monitor the reservoir.  
To place the pads in just hold them in place.
Turn the caliper over onto the temporarily mounted caliper bracket which was left in place from the sets above.
This shows the loose bolt about to be tightened. 26 ft/lbs.
This shows the Allen head bolt about to be tightened. 16 ft/lbs.

Remove the caliper, put the rotor back on and then the caliper back on again. Now just torque down the caliper bolts. 70 ft/lbs.


Once reassembled and the wheels are back on, use the pad manufacturer's recommendations as to correct break-in procedure.

Author: Scott Fabre
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