DIAGNOSIS:
To replace leaking oil cooler lines.
PROCEDURES:
1) Drain the oil. Place an oil catch basin under the oil
cooler where the lines attach....YOU'RE GOING TO NEED IT!
2) You will need either a very large open end wrench or
an adjustable wrench to unbolt the lines from the block. I
used an adjustable...tightened the wrench onto the bolt and
gave it one good whack to break it free. Once you break it
free, you can loosen the bolts the rest of the way with your
fingers. I should also mention that I removed the oil filter
and covered the opening with a clean shop rag just to give
myself some extra room. It wasn't really necessary, but
since I was changing the oil anyway....I went ahead and
removed it. I also shoved several shop rags in and around
the oil cooler lines in front of the block and in and around
the oil cooler to try and prevent dripping. Be
forewarned....no matter how much prep work you do to prevent
leaks and spills....forget it....you're going to make a big
mess no matter how you approach it. I should also mention
that I didn't bother to remove the radiator shroud or the
air cleaner....there was really no need to unless you really
wanted to be concerned about leaking oil all over the
place....I wasn't. You won't drip too much oil from the top
oil cooler line on the block, but the lower one makes a big
mess! If you're quick and well prepared, keep the blue caps
that come on the new lines close by and shove them on to the
ends that connect to the block ASAP. This will help deter
excessive leakage from the lines as you're removing the
other end.
3) Grab a 3/8" socket drive, a 3" extension and a 10mm
socket to remove the bolt that connects the other end of the
lines to the oil cooler. Again....this is going to create a
serious mess. Have the white caps off the new lines close by
so you can plug the ends ASAP.
4) Once you have removed the old set of lines, clean the
male threads coming from the block well. Also clean the area
around the holes of the oil cooler. Make sure that the old
O-rings from the oil cooler lines are not stuck on the oil
cooler. I then applied a coat of Permatex Thread Sealant
With Teflon (white colored) (Part No. 14) which I bought at
AutoPalace for $2.99 to the male extensions coming from the
block. Apply a liberal coat making sure that it gets into
the threads and then wipe any excess off making sure that
you don't get any of it (including "strings") around the
openings leading into the block. I then dabbed my finger
into some motor oil and lubricated the O-rings (which should
already come with the new set of oil cooler lines) the same
as you would when you lubricate the rubber gasket on an oil
filter before installing it.
NOTE: The block fitting is a simple flange/compression type
which does NOT *by design* require any sealer. RTV, if mis-applied,
can become mobile in the oil system and cause a variety of
potential problems.
5) I attached the lines to the block first. This takes
some arm muscle because the lines do not come preformed into
the necessary shape. You have to bend them. Never the
less....it takes some muscle, but they go on quickly. Once
you get the female ends on, it takes a little more muscle to
get the other end on to the oil cooler. Also, it's a little
difficult to tell if the lines are "in" or not, so make sure
you really wiggle the lines around before bolting them into
place. Once you're sure they are in place, replace the bolt
that locks them to the oil cooler. You're done. Enjoy the
cleanup! Now then....if you're not one to get off the feel
of oil all over your hands....possibly on your pants or
shoes....take your ZR to a dealer and them do it.....you're
going to get a little dirty no matter how you approach
this...but it is never the less, easy to do and painless.
For safety sake, below, I have included the instruction from
the service manual. You will notice that it states to torque
the fittings to 89 lb, in. and 41 lb ft. I didn't have the
necessary torque wrench/tools to do this, so I tightened the
lines to what I felt comfortable with.
From pg. 6A2A-19 of the Service Manual:
Remove or Disconnect:
1. Negative battery cable ( I didn't bother to do this).
2. Oil cooler line fittings at oil filter housing.
3. Bolt retaining oil cooler lines at oil cooler and
lines from vehicle.
Install or Connect:
1) Cooler lines and bolt.
IMPORTANT--Be sure that new oil cooler
O-rings are in place prior to installation.
Tighten:
Bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb. in.).
2) Oil cooler lines onto filter housing.
IMPORTANT--Use a backup wrench on the
oil cooler line fittings. (I didn't have to do this.)
Tighten:
Lines to 56 N.m (41 lb. ft.).
