LT5 Rebuild

by Fred Dorland

Last Update: 08/05/2005

I've just finished up a LT5 rebuild on my engine and never removed the LT5 from my car or used any professional car lift etc.

I rebuilt the LT5 down to the bare cylinder block ( liners / pistons, rods out etc. ) except for the crank. All other engine components were removed or rebuilt.

I didn't remove anything that didn't belong to the engine, or needed to be rebuilt.

i only removed the "airco" cylinder case because this gave me some more space at the front.

I did this by just having the car up on 2 car jacks (those metal things that stay under the wheels) and with the front wheels

on a solid underground about 20 cm off the floor. The rear wheels never left the ground.

I did all the engine work easily just sitting on my front wheel tire. Because front wheel is up 20 cm your feet are perfectly spaced there. The manual was just on the front window so I could read it and my tool wagon (chest) was close at hand so I didn't have to walk to it all the time.

For the work under the car I just lay down on my back on a small mattress (and fell asleep there once). That way I spared my back a great deal. From under the ZR I was able to remove the headers, the oil pan, the rod's etc.

The only problems I had were the heat shield (a bit difficult without a car lift) , but certainly still possible with some patience)

And I did not have to remove the master brake cylinder to remove the 2 cam cover bolts on drivers side.

I just took the heads off the old cover bolts, and replace them the whole cam cover bolt set for a stainless steel "Marc Haibeck" set and removed 1/2 inch from the 2 bolts in the corner. They are still more than long enough to fit just fine.

This save me more then a days job to get the brake cylinder out ( which must be done with dashboard build out etc)

So for all you guys without the "heavy tools" or big car lifts etc. YOU CAN REBUILD YOUR ENGINE, without removing the master brake cylinder, and without having to pull out the complete engine, (so you can leave the radiator, oil cooler, etc all in place)

I think, looking back to the job, it was nice working on the engine that way. I was always sitting or lying down so never got tired.

Ok taking the engine completely out is the best way of course, but by doing it the way that I did I didn't have to take off many of the engine components needed to remove the engine such as the gearbox.

Flew good tips:

1. If you have to take off your cam covers, remove the sparkplugs later, its much easier that way (with the cam covers off there is lots of space for your tools to remove the plugs, and you don't need special tools) and you won't drop stuff in the

otherwise "open holes ".

2: When you take out your injectors "use the wooden end of your hammer" between the air inlet housing and the injector housing by softly lifting the wooden steel, they just pop out quite easily.

MAKE SURE YOU STORE THE INJECTORS IN A BATH OF FUEL DON'T KEEP THEM IN OPEN AIR OR ON YOUR SHELF, otherwise water dampness gets in your injectors and you'll end up throwing them away because "rust will " get on the plates inside. if you don't need to take them out of the rails, just place them in a big "fuel save" pan or use a half "cut though "jerrycan like I did (after I made the mistake the first time to leaving them laying around loose in the garage).

On my paint job, I had it al polished up and re-painted the engine with HAMERHITE (bleu and silver) for the covers/plenum/fuelrails etc. and the special K&N air intake ( 3 filters instead of 1).

So you don't need special expensive paints at all, the paint I used is inexpensive, is VERY STRONG , and won't color fade at all. You'll see!

For anyone with questions the can use my email address (zr1@planet.nl), (sorry about my English , but I am Dutch)

Fred "Spijker"

Holland / Europa


	Disclaimer: Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.

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