ZR-1 Engine Removal

by Jim Milstead
DIAGNOSIS:
To remove a LT5 Engine

PROCEDURES:
The last time I actually wrote anything of value :-) it was the removal of the clutch and flywheel. I have since removed the motor (again) for some work on the cams and dampener. Here is a step by step removal process for the engine. This is assuming that the clutch and flywheel are already removed and all fluids are removed prior to beginning this. The total time is about 2 hours.

1) Remove oxygen sensors from exhaust manifolds.

2) Remove heat shielding from exhaust manifolds.

3) Remove exhaust manifolds.

4) (hot tip) Remove the plenum. This includes removing all water, vacuum, and fuel lines. This is covered in this "How To" section.

5) Remove the water hoses and water housings from the injector housing.

6) Remove the serpentine belt.
The following two steps are used if you do not need to place the engine on a dyno later in your project.

5) Remove the power steering pump. This is much easier than removing the hoses in my opinion.

6) Remove the air conditioner compressor leaving the hose connections intact.
The following two steps are used if the engine is to be placed on a dyno later in the project.

7) Remove the power steering hoses. You can get to them through the holes in the power steering pulley. Be very careful not to damage the nuts holding on the hoses. It is a 17mm nut.

8) Evacuate the air conditioner of coolant and remove the hoses from the compressor.
Continue on with removing the electrical connections.

9) In the interior, remove the passenger side kickplate. You will need to take the fuse plate off to get to all the nuts.

10) Remove the electrical connectors under the panel. There are two multi connectors under there.

11) Back in the engine compartment, on the right passenger side, remove the connectors for the air conditioner on the right frame rail.

12) Remove the water reservoir and disconnect the two connectors under there.

13) Remove remaining connectors (2) on the passenger side.

14) Remove air/heater sensor on the passenger side. It is where the connectors go into a triangle box. Remove that and let it rest on the windshield.

15) Remove the triangle heater/airconditioner box. There is a screw way underneath that connects to the firewall so be sure to get that one.

16) Underneath the car on the driver side, remove the chassis ground and the battery ground. The chassic ground is located high on the back of the engine close to the bell housing bolt holes, on the left side. It is a braided silver wire. Therer are several wires grounded there. The battery negitive cable is located on the right side of the engine, about half way up the rear. There is only one wire there.

17) Remove the nuts for the engine mounts. I found it easier to remove the nuts that hold the mounts to the frame, not the engine to the mounts.

18) Remove the ECM from the cradle with the wires attached and lay it up out of the way.

19) Remove the cradle and associated wires and vacuum hose.

20) Remove the left side rocker panel and remove the battery.

21) Underneath the batter is a power connection with several wires going to it. Remove all the wires connected to that terminal.

22) Further underneath, you will see two large bundle of wires going into a connector(s) at the firewall. Between the two bundles going into the connector, there is a screw. It is 1/4" (not metric). Unscrew that and remove the connector. Now, there is a sheath around both connectors. You have to remove that so that the two bundled connectors can be split apart. One bundle goes to the left front of the compartment and the other to the engine. Take the one to the engine and feed it through and lay it on top of the engine. There is one more orange wire fuse connecter that you must remove there.

23) Remove the connectors from the wiper motor.

24) Tilt the engine back a bit. You should have a clear shot at getting to the connector for the interior wiring harness since the plenum is off (remember hot tip #4). There are two screws holding this in. Remove those and fish the interior wiring through the hole.

25) You should have all the wires that need to be removed between the engine and the car itself. I think this is all but look around, I may have forgot a couple. You need to lay the wiring bundles on top of the engine out of the way.

26) To lift the engine, I simly use some straps and a tilter on the cherry picker. I strap right in front of the engine mounts for the front and at the end of the oil pan for the rear. Take care not to run the straps across any connectors.

27) Slowly bring the engine up just a bit. Now, you need to go to the right front of the engine and remove the water hose that goes into the block.

28) Inspect the engine and make sure you got all wires and connections removed.

29) Then is is a simple matter of picking the engine up and moving it to an engine stand.

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

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