ZR-1 Cam Timing

by Jim Milstead

 

Last Update: 04/08/2006

 

DIAGNOSIS:
LT5 Cam Timing

 

PROCEDURES:
Of note here, my engine is out of the engine bay and on an engine stand. I will not go through every cam and the one and six cylinder, just how to do one cam. The others the method is the same.

 

Assumptions:

 

A. All cam sprocket bolts have been previously removed, cleaned, and cam end threads cleaned.


B. The camshaft chain pretensioners are installed and tightened "finger tight". Follow the manual for how to properly tension them.


C. The reader here knows how to zero out a degree wheel and what TDC (Top Dead Center) and MOP (Maximum Opening Position) mean. It is assumed you have already zeroed out the degree wheel.


D. The reader can set up a dial indicator on the lifter and can determine where MOP is on a cam lobe.


E. Use the primary lobe for determining MOP.

 

Set factory timing:

1. Turn crank to crank locking position and lock crank down.

 

2. Turn cams to factory pin position and use the camshaft alignment timing pins to secure the cams in the factory position.

 

3. Put the camshaft sprocket timing plate on the end of the camshaft.

 

4. Pin the camshaft timing sprocket plate with the camshaft sprocket pin.

 

5. Install the camshaft bolt and torque down the camshaft bolt tight enough to hold the timing temporarily.

 

6. Remove camshaft alignment timing pins.

 

7. Remove crankshaft locking pin.

 

Verify cam timing:

8. Rotate engine clockwise.

 

9. Reading the dial indicator, determine where MOP is. Here, we will assume approximately 114 degrees BTDC. Zero out the dial indicator at that point.

 

10. Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the dial indicator. When the dial indicator reaches approximately .010 before MOP, verify the degrees on the degree wheel. Let's say 131 degrees. Remember that number.

 

11. Continue to rotate the engine past MOP until the dial indicator reaches .010 after MOP. Verify the degrees on the degree wheel. Let's say, 97 degrees.

 

12. Add the two numbers, 131 + 97 = 228 / 2 = 114. This is the degree that is set at the factory. Note, you may want to review Marc's article for the factory settings for particular year models.

 

To change a cam timing:

13. To change a setting, continue rotating the engine clockwise until you've reached the previous degree setting in step 10, above.

 

14. Loosen the cam sprocket bolt. Have one person holding the opposite end of the cam keeping it from not moving. You may not have to remove the bolt nor the camshaft sprocket pin as there is play in the system.

 

15. If you need to change the timing to another degree, say 112 degrees, BTDC, you need to rotate the cam counter clockwise as you look at the cam from the front of the engine.

 

16. Watching the dial indicator which is currently .010, rotate the cam counter clockwise until the dial indicator reads .012. This is an approximation so please note. There is approximate .001 lift for each degree of cam timing. This method keeps tension from the valve spring on the cam and it cannot rotate around throwing off your timing. When you rotate the cam, you do it from the rear of the cam. There is a 19 mm, 6 point fitting there to allow you to either hold or move the cam.

 

17. If you can't rotate the cam to this position, you will need to remove the camshaft bolt, the camshaft sprocket timing plate and the camshaft sprocket pin before rotating the camshaft. Once the camshaft is rotated, replace the camshaft sprocket timing plate, find an appropriate hole, and replace the camshaft sprocket pin and camshaft bolt. Reference Marc Haibeck's article.

 

18. While holding the rear of the cam in position as verified by observing the dial indicator, torque down the camshaft bolt to where it will not move. Care must be taken to keep the dial indicator at the height you wish. This will tell you if you have moved the cam a degree or so off. This is very critical as there is play in the system and this is your indicator that something has slipped.

If something does slip, just tighten the cam bolt down and go back to step 8 and determine where you are now and what needs to be done to change the timing to what you want.

 

Verify Timing:

19. Repeat steps 8-12 to verify the timing. If your timing is off, go back to step 8 and proceed to determine where the current MOP is on the timing wheel and set the timing to what you want.

 

Final Torquing:

20. Once the timing has been set correctly, rotate the engine back to the .010 before MOP on the dial indiactor.

 

21. Keeping the cam at the same position remove the cam bolt and put Loctite 262 on the bolt. Replace the bolt back into the cam.

 

22. Keeping a close eye on the dial indicator and making sure the rear end of the cam is held tightly in one place as not to change the dial indicator, torque the cam bolt to 20 ftlbs. Take a torque angle guage and torque the bolt to between 80-85 degrees.

 

Verify Timing:

23. Repeat steps 8-12 to verify the timing.

 

24. Repeat steps 8-12 to verify the timing.

 

25. Once all cams have been timed, repeat steps 8-12 to verify the timing for cylinders 1 and 6.

 

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

 

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