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ZR-1 Lumbar Failure

Last Update: 02/07/2010

by ZR-1 Net members

 

SYMPTOM: The inflatable Sport seat bladder for lumbar and side bolsters stops working. The pump runs audibly; but the actuated bellows housing membrane, or diaphragm, has ruptured.

 

CORRECTIVE MEASURES:

 

Instead of replacing the whole pump from GM you can order just the membrane from the manufacturer, Jasco Products, in Sun Valley, CA. Their phone number is 818-504-2516. Ask for Ramona. Also you will find an article on replacing this piece in the May '95 issue of Corvette Fever.

 

Another fix from member Mike Zeeff:


I know you can order the diaphragms from Jasco, but here is a better fix for 99 cents. Some of the info came from the vette net by Jim Mason, but I found an easier way to make the fix. Both of my diaphragms were blown out on my 90 ZR-1. Total time to fix both sides was 45 minutes.

 

1. Purchase a pair of latex rubber dishwashing gloves from your local 5&10. Make sure they are the heavy duty kind, and not the ones the thickness of a condom. Also make sure they have a good portion of flat texture on the cuff. You'll need enough to cut out two 1" round diaphragms.

 

2. Remove the lower seat cushion. There is a wire retainer at the front bottom of the seat. Carefully flip the seat bottom up and out of the way to expose the bladder pump. It is the one with the tubing's attached to it.

 

3. On one one end of the pump you will notice two small phillips head screws, holding on a retaining plate. Remove both screws and the retaining plate. The bottom one is a little hard, but it can be done with a small jewelers screwdriver. You do not have to remove the pump itself.

 

4. Once you remove the retainer, you can wiggle out the diaphragm assembly. It has three tubes attached to it on one end, and the plunger assembly on the other. If your diaphragm is busted, then the plunger will be separated.

 

5. The diaphragm assembly, is held together by four small bolts and nuts. Remove all four, and break apart the diagram assembly. You can now take it to your workbench.

 

6. By this time you will clearly see how the diaphragm works. Pull the old diaphragm out, and use it as a template for your new one. Once you cut out a new one, you can mount it on the plunger. Since there is a screw that retains the diagram to the plunger, it is a good idea to use a small dab of silicon sealer to the screw hole.

 

7. Re-assemble the entire diaphragm assembly and pump. Be careful to get the plunger back on the motor rod.

 

8. Test the unit before you put on the retaining plate. You will see the pump motor spinning the plunger. Make sure it is inflating the bladders.

 

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

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