The same tear down is needed

as when the INFL REST sensor

was reworked last week.

You will need to pull the

driver side knee bolster off.

Access is needed in here

to pull the master cylinder

push rod off of the clutch

peddle. The box on the right

is the head unit for my 10 CD

changer.

The push rod in held in place

by the J-clip above. A tricky

part to get back on in such

tight quarters.

The above is a view of the

clutch peddle switch and

the tail end of the master

cylinder push rod to the

left of the switch. ( you

probably should look at

this picture upside-down

since that is how it looks

when you have your head

in there.)

Above is on of two bolts

that hold the back plate

of the master cylinder to

the fire wall. Note the

tapered end. This is very

handy when reinstalling.

The nuts these go into are

captive and will not spin

and are located above the

drivers foot area.

The old one is out. (sorry missed

some detail shots here) Missing

from this photo is a very thick

plate (1" or so) that slides over

the large black rubber seal shown

on the push rod. The two holding

bolts go through this plate.

You can just make out

the plate behind the new

master clutch here.

Side view of new master

cylinder. Note that on the

old one several pictures

above, there was a tie

wrap holding the white

plastic reservoir in place.

There in no such hole to

host the tie wrap on the

new one.

Another view of the new

part in place.

Now ready to affix the

fluid line going down to

 the slave cylinder.

This is an attempt to get

a shot of me putting the

J-clip back in place. It

is hard to see this here

and even harder to take

the shot!

And now to fill the thirsty

reservoir .

Using genuine GM fluid.

It is suppose to prevent

squeaking that would

occur if regular brake

fluid was used.

Why type a part number

when you can just take

it's picture?

All full. Kinda piss

yellow ain't it?