Replacing the Accumulator

by Scott Fabre

Last Update: 08/04/2005

This is a necessary thing to do when converting from R12 to R134a. The oil in the accumulator is not compatible with the R134a oil. The R134a oil is so called "ester" based. Also there is a flush compound available to rinse out the remaining

R12 oil in the hoses and evaporators.

Picture above is the new accumulator. It pays to make sure the thing is the right one before you start taking out the old one. Sometimes your old parts guy will give you the wrong one. Nah, that doesn't happen, right?	After disconnecting the air conditional hoses with a 1-1/4in and 1-1/8in wrench remove the bellows and the air horn extension. The extension uses a T-25 style screw. Then use a large pry bar to press back the radiator cross bar so you can remove the accumulator. No need to release the band holding it. Just rotate it CW then CCW over and over while pulling up.
This is my helper. You will need a helper to hold the bar back while you take out the accumulator.	With the bar still being held back insert the new accumulator.
This is a shot near the firewall on the passenger side just below the radiator reservoir. Note the two hoses have been disconnected. See the small one there?	Picture # The is a better picture of the small one. The small one is lit up with a flash light. This opening is where you will find the Orifice Filter. It is a about three inches long and has fine mesh screen in it. There is a picture of it a few frames down.
This is a diagram of the previous picture. Note the arrow with the box with a "2" in it. That is the hose you have to remove to get at the filter.	This is a shot of the filter. Those are metal filings.
This is a new and old filter side by side. The part on the right goes in first. Then reattach the hose.	Make sure to put 8oz of new R134a oil into the system. I put about 3oz in the accumulator and the rest was split between the compressor (which was new) and the evaporator core.

Once the accumulator and hoses are reattached you are ready to have the system evacuated. I paid $35 bucks just to have it evacuated then charged the system with 2 1/4 lbs of R134a per the service manual.


	Disclaimer: Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.

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