Front Break Pad Replacement Project

 

by Scott Fabre

Last Update: 08/03/2005

 

 

This installment of pads is not a full front break job. It is just pad replacement.

 

DISCLAIMER. What you are about to do may not be described in the GM manual. In fact I know it isn't. If you attempt any of this it is at your own risk.

 

This may be over the top as far as pictures of every little tinny detail being photographed but that way when you actually do the job it will feel like you have done it before.

 

 

 

First use the "Jacking the Car Up"

pictorial How To to get this side of

the car up.

Next of course take the wheel off.

 

Put one of the lug nuts back

on to secure the rotor.

Using a 13/16 in socket

(hard to read in picture) on the

rotor fasteners.

 

Remove the two fasteners holding

the caliper on.

 

Turn the caliper upside down and

lay it on the top of the rotor between

the rotor and the steering knuckle.

Then remove the j-clip.

Pull the pin out.

 

Note direction and placement of

pin.

 

Pry the outer pad off first.

 

Note lots of pad left but I wanted

to try a different compound.

 

Now pry the inner pad off being

very careful not to upset the cylinder.

 

With the pad off now turn the

pad around so that........

 

The face of the old pad contacts

the two cylinders. This is done

so you can use the clamp shown

above to slooooowwwwwlllyyy

compress the two cylinders in and

not have to worry about prying the

pad off later.

Remove the reservoir cap and keep

an eye on the reservoir for overflow

as you compress the two cylinders in.

A view of the cylinders fully

compressed.

I always apply less of the anti

squeak goo that is called for.

Makes less of a mess so the

next time you do the pads they

will come off without using a prybar..

 

Now press in each of the pads.

and apply each of the retaining

clips. The inner and ......

the outer next.

Align the mounting bracket and

slide it back on.

 

Make sure the spring clips have

good contact with the mounting

bracket. If they don't then pry back

in them a bit so they will have good

contact.

Slide the pin in or work it in by

rocking it back and forth as you insert.

Reattach the j-clip onto the pin.

Slide the caliper back onto the rotor.

 

Put the big bolts back in and.....

   

 

 

Torque them to 166 ft/lb. Once reassembled, pump the brake peddle very very slooowwwwly to charge up the fluid and set the pads. Then take it for a ride. I like to run at about 70mph or so and then hit the brakes hard.

I do this twice then park it until the brakes are cool then do it again. This sets the initial pattern into the pad.

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

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