Rear Break Pad Replacement Project

by Scott Fabre

 

Last Update: 08/03/2005

 

This installment of pads is not a full rear break job. It is just pad replacement.

 

 

The first thing to do is remove the wheel. Then remove the

two bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove the caliper and

the rotor. Then put a single bolt in the lower caliper

mount. This holds the caliper for more work.

The next thing to do is mount a wire as show. The other

end is tied to one of the screws that hold the fender

well in at the top. Note: the trick of using the socket to

hold the pads in.

Now take a flat blade and remove the spring.

Use the 16mm on the outer and 17mm on

the inner nut as shown.

 

Use the 7mm Allen wrench on the lower

fastener and the 17mm to hold the inner

nut.

Note the top fastener is a regular 16mm

head bolt and the bottom one is an Allen

head.

 

Now turn the inside section of the caliper over

to reveal the business end.

Note: the trick of using the socket to hold the

pads in.

 

Now use a clamp to press slowly on the

pad so that it goes back in.

 

You must remove the top of the reservoir to keep

n eye on it to make sure it does not over flow.

 

This is the TV in my garage. How it ties in

here is below.

 

I used a feature I have in my house that you are

not likely to have but I think it was so "trick" that

I just had to include it. I have several micro cameras

around my house for security. I also post these

pictures on the net so I can see them when I am

traveling. Well, I have a spare one so I plugged it in

and monitored the reservoir. Since these are wireless

cameras the setup was to just set it on the windshield

pointing at the reservoirs. kewl.

To place the pads in just hold them in place then......

 

To place the pads in just hold them in place then......

 

Now flip it over onto the temporarily mounted

caliper bracket which was left in place from

the sets above.

The above shot shows the loose bolt about to

be tightened. 26 ft/lbs.

 

This shot shows the Allen head bolt about to be tightened.

16 ft/lbs.

 

Remove the caliper, put the rotor back on and

then the caliper back on again.

Now just torque down the caliper bolts. 70 ft/lbs.

 

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

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