For the record, the car I am working on here is not my ZR1. It is
my brother's C4 (narrow car). The window drive
mechanism is the same as is in out ZR1. Now for some fun pictures
and comments on this latest installment of
"How to".....

First remove all obvious screws holding the
door
panel in. There are about six around the
bottom (his 85 had the bose speaker grill to
be removed)
A tricky one is on the back of the
door near the clasp. Another tricky area is in
the door handle
area (inside door handle). There
are two philips head screw in there that are not
difficult to
remove but can be a pain in the butt to
put back in.
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There is a bit of detail left out above
sorry. It
requires you to disconnect
all the electrical connectors. Some
are a royal pain. Be
careful to study
each one as to where and how the
retainer works so you don't
break one.
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Remove the plastic barrier.
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Disconnect the remaining connectors.
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There are about 10 hex head sheet
metal screw
holding in the aluminum
sheet metal piece.
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 Here is the last of the sheet metal screws, don't
drop the little
suckers in the door panel!
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There are two bolts holding a bracket (above).
DON'T drop the bracket once the bolts come off.
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Next are the actuator rods. There are two of them.
This was the tricky one in that there is no need to
disconnect the end at the left side that
connects to
the door latch. Just pry the two tangs shown above
apart so that the rod can be separated
from the
aluminum sheet panel. There is also a white plastic
piece that the rods run
through behind the aluminum
just pop the rods out of the plastic. There just a
pressure fitting.
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Now for the little white rod end retainer.
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This comes off by pushing back and to the left on
just the plastic piece.
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Now you should be able to pull out the
sheet metal
piece to expose the rod end
clasp for the inside door release latch.
Remove the retaining
clip by inserting a
small flat blade screw driver under the
clip then work it away from the
rod and
toward the inside of the door.
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Swing the sheet metal out of the way.
(see it just
above my right hand?)
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Remove the two bolts in this area and the
one to
the right but make sure someone is
holding onto the window glass!
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This picture and the next few are technically
out
of order. The were actually taken while
putting the fixed unit back in but hey, same
deal as
taking it out. To remove this piece
take off the two nuts holding the top and the
two on the bottom of
the door. NOTE: the two
on the bottom of the door can be felt by running
your hand along the
bottom of the door. They
are 10mm (I think, sorry this was yesterday...
already out of my short
term memory)
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After all the fasteners are out, rotate left,
pull
the top out and then lift up and pull
out the bottom.
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Here I am pulling out the bottom .
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Now let's get it up on the bench to take a look.
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Just a full view of the unit.
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Ah, here is the break....
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Drill out the 5/32 in rivets on the top.
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Remove the allen head screw. |

To remove the broken ribbon pieces
apply 12v to
the motor .
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Now the first of two ribbon pieces can be
removed.
DON'T FORGET to remove the
small broken off piece. Use the motor with
12V again to
get the little piece off.
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Ah, here is the extracted broken ribbon.
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Here is where you can try to install the new
ribbon but wait. It won't fit. I wonder why?
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Hmmm, seems to be a bit longer than
the two old
pieces put end to end. You
will need to cut the new one to the same
length as the two old broken
pieces.
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Ok, all better now. New ribbon piece is in and
the allen head screw is in place. (NOTE: the
round shaft will look bent in more than one place
almost
as if it were in an accident then rebent back.
This wavy bend is normal. Do not try to make the
bend a single curve)
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Now a word of warning. The two replacement
pop
rivets sent with the kit are the wrong size.
Pitch these because they are too big. (3/16 in)
Use 5/32 in pop rivets.
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When reassembling use loctite on all critical
window mechanisms. You don't want to have
to get back in there for a loose screw/nut. I
used the
blue loctite. ( I don't know what the
number is and don't care) Virtually any paint
will work here
too. That's all loctite is.
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Now for a little mineral oil on the ribbon to
metal contact area.
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Oh, yeah when putting the aluminum sheet
metal
piece back in don't forget to put in in
FRONT of this captive nut flange. It is a real
pisser if
you forget. (note picture show how
to do it WRONG!)
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This picture is for Milstead. It can be used
for
multiple things, everything from door
windows to feeling regular again.
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And then it was all back together again like magic .
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