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Replacing Fuel Pumps
by
Scott Fabre
Last Update:
09/30/2007
There are a gazillion pictures below but.......
This is very important: If you are dealing with a fuel pump
problem then you will be in and around fuel.
You need to follow all of the precautions mentioned in the GM
service manual! Any thing you read here could be wrong so it is up to you to decide what you want to do
with the information.
These are excerpts from mail posted in 1999 that will help
understanding the pictures. I have posted these now (2/10/01) as a result of inquiries I have had into fuel pump
replacement information. Note: unlike past projects that I have posted these do not have the blow by blow
text. That is because they were done before I had started posting these projects to the web. They do however
speak for themselves somewhat.
Part # info:
Airtex - E3904 ($69)
Master- E3265 ($69)
Autozone - 3940 or 3270 ($50-65) I have never used these.
Neihoff - P36 (it also has BWD P36 on it) ($65)
Good luck and be careful!
Some months back I had a code 55 and traced it down to
the secondary fuel pump. I replaced it with an Airtex E3904
which required that the electrical connector be modified to fit.
The instructions called for cutting off the old connector and
putting on a wide spade design. I decided not to “cut” anything
but instead fashion a male to female extension that would
adapt the two.
Well as it turns out the E3904 part went bad on me after about
1 month of use. It has a lifetime warranty so I took it back and got
a Master E3265 part to replace it. This part has the right
electrical
connector too! So I just pulled of the adapter and bingo, ready for
action.
Moral of the story:
1. Master is better than Airtex (same price ~$69)
2. Never modify something you may need to return to stock.
A few other pointers: When troubleshooting a code 55 forget the
diag flow chart in the manual. The chart works but is not optimized
for time spent. By the time you pull the bolster checking fuses etc
you can have the problem found. I’ll just say think about starting
at the connector under the black rubber fuel shield around the fuel
fill spout to start your reconnoitering.
P.S. I figured out how to get the fuel pump assembly out in one
piece without taking off the sending unit arm. Makes swapping
the fuel pump a 25min job!
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I have a boat load of pictures that show sequentially, how to
remove
the fuel assembly. Also the sender unit sounds from your
description, is not
making contact toward the end of it’s travel. Once you get it out
there is a spring
loaded contact that you could bend that should fix this.
The key to getting the assembly out is to alternate between CCW and
CW
as you come up with the unit. This is also accompanied by tilting
forward and
backward at times. Attached are the pictures in zip format. They are
in reverse order because
they were taken putting the unit back in. (Same difference)
I can now see, that maybe a video of this would have been better.
Hard to
describe exactly how to do this by writing it.
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