The side window would not go all the way up, caused by a break in the window 'ribbon'. Note: while this is for an 85 it will prove instructive in some areas for the ZR-1
First remove all obvious screws holding the door panel in. There are about six around the bottom (his 85 had the bose speaker grill to be removed) A tricky one is on the back of the door near the clasp. Another tricky area is in the door handle area (inside door handle). There are two philips head screw in there that are not difficult to remove but can be a pain in the butt to put back in.


There is a bit of detail left out above sorry. It requires you to disconnect all the electrical connectors. Some are a royal pain. Be careful to study each one as to where and how the retainer works so you don't break one.
Remove the plastic barrier.
Disconnect the remaining connectors.
There are about 10 hex head sheet metal screw holding in the aluminum sheet metal piece.
Here is the last of the sheet metal screws, don't drop the little suckers in the door panel!
There are two bolts holding a bracket (above). Don't drop the bracket once the bolts come off.  
Next are the actuator rods. There are two of them. This was the tricky one in that there is no need to disconnect the end at the left side that connects to the door latch. Just pry the two tangs shown above apart so that the rod can be separated from the aluminum sheet panel. There is also a white plastic piece that the rods run through behind the aluminum just pop the rods out of the plastic. There just a pressure fitting.  
Now for the little white rod end retainer.
This comes off by pushing back and to the left on just the plastic piece.  
Now you should be able to pull out the sheet metal piece to expose the rod end clasp for the inside door release latch. Remove the retaining clip by inserting a small flat blade screw driver under the clip then work it away from the rod and toward the inside of the door.  
Swing the sheet metal out of the way. (see it just above my right hand?)  
Remove the two bolts in this area and the one to the right but make sure someone is
holding onto the window glass!
This picture and the next few are technically out of order. The were actually taken while putting the fixed unit back in but hey, same deal as taking it out. To remove this piece take off the two nuts holding the top and the two on the bottom of the door. NOTE: the two on the bottom of the door can be felt by running your hand along the bottom of the door. They are 10mm (I think, sorry this was yesterday... already out of my short term memory)  
After all the fasteners are out, rotate left, pull the top out and then lift up and pull out the bottom.  
Here I am pulling out the bottom.  
Now let's get it up on the bench to take a look.  
A full view of the unit.
Here is the break.  
Drill out the 5/32 in rivets on the top.  
Remove the allen head screw.  
To remove the broken ribbon pieces apply 12v to the motor.  
Now the first of two ribbon pieces can be removed. DON'T FORGET to remove the small broken off piece. Use the motor with 12V again to get the little piece off.  
Here is the extracted broken ribbon.  
Here is where you can try to install the new ribbon but wait. It won't fit. I wonder why?  
Hmmm, seems to be a bit longer than the two old pieces put end to end. You will need to cut the new one to the same length as the two old broken pieces.  
Ok, all better now. New ribbon piece is in and the allen head screw is in place. (NOTE: the round shaft will look bent in more than one place almost as if it were in an accident then rebent back. This wavy bend is normal. Do not try to make the bend a single curve)
Now a word of warning. The two replacement pop rivets sent with the kit are the wrong size. Pitch these because they are too big. (3/16 in). Use 5/32 in pop rivets.  
When reassembling use loctite on all critical window mechanisms. You don't want to have to get back in there for a loose screw/nut. I used the blue loctite. ( I don't know what the number is and don't care) Virtually any paint will work here too. That's all loctite is.  
Now for a little mineral oil on the ribbon to metal contact area.  
When putting the aluminum sheet metal piece back in don't forget to put it in FRONT of this captive nut flange. It is a real pisser if you forget. (note: the picture shows how to do it WRONG!)  
And then it was all back together again like magic.  
Author: Scott Fabre
Posted in: Body, Glass, Doors
Post Comment
Only registered users may post comments.

The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. Whilst we endeavor to keep the information up-to-date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of or in connection with the use of this website.

Through this website there are links to other websites which are not under the control of the ZR-1 Net Registry. We have no control over the nature, content and availability of those sites. The inclusion of any links does not necessarily imply a recommendation or endorse the views expressed within them.

Read the full Disclaimer...

©2019 ZR-1 NET Registry   |  Privacy Statement